The Amalfi Coast is one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen in my life. If you stand at any viewpoint along the coast and gaze out at the ocean, you actually cannot tell where the sea ends and the sky begins. The two just blend together into a seemingly infinite mass of blue. It’s almost surreal.
I stayed in a small village called San Lazzaro, which is part of a group of villages collectively known as Agerola. It wasn’t the most convenient place for exploring the Amalfi Coast, since the only direct buses from there are to Amalfi town. This meant I always had to change buses in Amalfi if I wanted to go to any other town along the coast. The other negative about San Lazzaro is that there is pretty much no nightlife there, at least as far as I could tell. It’s a very small, quiet town.
The good thing about staying in San Lazzaro, though, is that it’s much cheaper than the more popular towns on the Amalfi coast, such as Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. The difference in food costs was actually striking. I paid literally half as much in San Lazzaro restaurants as I would pay in Positano for the same amount of food. I couldn’t believe how much cheaper San Lazzaro was. Another nice thing about it is that it’s so much less crowded, less touristy, and more laid-back than the other Amalfi Coast towns. It’s a good place to unwind at the end of a long day of hiking and sightseeing.
In order to get around to the other towns along the coast, you have to take the SITA buses that connect all of the towns with Amalfi. Make sure you buy your tickets in advance at tobacco stores or souvenir shops because they’re not sold on the bus. The price of the ticket depends on how far you’re travelling. (I always paid between 1.30€ and 2.90€ for a one-way ticket.) The buses are easy to figure out but they’re extremely popular, so don’t expect to get a seat most of the time. I almost always ended up standing in the aisle on my way back to San Lazzaro from Amalfi (an hour-long ride).
If you visit none of the other towns on the Amalfi Coast, make sure you at least visit Positano. It’s definitely the most beautiful town in the region. I’m sure you’ve seen plenty of pictures of it elsewhere, but here are some more. Because how can you ever get tired of looking at Positano?
The best way of getting to Positano is to hike to it along a trail known as the Path of the Gods. It’s the most popular trail in the area, and the views it affords are spectacular. The trail starts in a town called Bomerano (which is a 15-minute bus ride from San Lazzaro) and ends at a town called Nocelle. From Nocelle, you simply walk down a looooooooooooong staircase to reach Positano. The whole hike, from Bomerano to Positano, took me three hours. Make sure you start early to beat the heat and the crowds. I started the trail at about 8:30am and that was perfect. People would pass by me every so often, but I was alone for the most part.
You’ll also definitely spend some time in the town of Amalfi, since that’s where all the bus routes connect. It’s slightly less pretty than Positano, but it’s still an absolute beauty. Make sure you take a look at the beautiful Cathedral of St. Andrew in the Piazza del Duomo.
Another town that you should be sure not to miss is Ravello. It’s not quite as well-known as Amalfi or Positano, but it’s a very pretty town that’s definitely worthy of a few hours of your time. It’s only a 25-minute bus ride from Amalfi, and you can save yourself a one-way bus fare by walking back. It took me a little under an hour to walk down the stairs from Ravello to Amalfi. (I wouldn’t attempt walking UP those stairs!) The top of the stairs in Ravello is right by the Villa Cimbrone. Just follow the signs to the villa and you’ll find it easily.
If a nice beach is what you’re after, you’re spoiled for choice on the Amalfi Coast. There are tons of beautiful spots to go swimming. Personally, the only place I actually went swimming was in the town of Maiori, which happens to have the longest beach on the whole coast. It’s almost a kilometre long. I wasn’t ambitious enough to actually manage to snap a photo of the beach (I was too anxious to get into the water) but here are a couple pictures of me awkwardly posing in Maiori.
My next stop is none other than Rome. I visited the Eternal City five years ago when it was one of the stops on a cruise I took. I only got to spend a few hours there, so of course I barely scratched the surface. I’m so excited to be able to actually explore at my leisure this time!